Customers design drawn in colored pencil

Drawing in CAD to match customers design and send to the laser cutter

Lots of expensive veneer all chopped up into a jugsaw puzzle from the laser

The laser shop spent a lot of time going over the CAD file to make certain that all the lines fit together properly. There was also a lot of thought in the cutting pattern to minimize burn

A rough fit of the pieces after being cut. There was still a lot of burn that needed to be delt with. In particular were some of the very sharp details of this design.

The edges need to be sanded with a medium grit to sand away any signs of char. A slight backcutting angle is suggested so that the top fibers of the veneer can mesh together and create a very tight joint. also the top scoarching is only lightely sanded away. There will be much more surface sanding later so do not use up your thin veneer just yet

Pieces are taped together with perf tape. Only perf tape. you can see the work through the holes most importantly. Start with short pieces to join the parts. the cross piece will help to draw the piece together as the tape shrinks.

As you carry on, stay focussed and bring the joints together slowely. lightely dampen the glue on the tape and with very low iron heat to provide a little warmth and pressure to set the glue.

It takes a while but with all cabinetmaking. A small mistake only gets bigger as your work progresses.

Frankensteins Bride. all stitched up

The back of the project reviels the 10mil paper backing

Before glue up consider the following. Are you going to balance the veneer job? How flat is the suface?

If your not planning to used a balancing veneer I suggest veneering your work to the crowned side of the substrate. The veneer will draw the crown up and you'll end up near dead flat. DA the veneered surface to avoid telegraphing of surface imperfections. You must do this.

To vacuum or not to vacuum. Urea resin in a hot press is th ultimate. Vacuum or a pinch roll is nice. I use PVA rolled out and set with an iron. I dont let the glue dry. The PVA has a decent glue line and will give decades of good service for any job.

This is a litle more timely to do but it locks down the veneer with the heat. If your contemplating glueing down more than a thousand dollars worth of veneer with contact cement I suggest you stop reading this article and seek proffesional help and mood enhancers.

Brush the glue around or just roll it. It will need to be rolled with a hard roller to make sure there is a thin film and the film is uniform. you can not brush on an even coat

Ready. this is a good size job. Ordinarily I let the glue just cast off the wet look but by the time the back of the veneer is coated it will be time to go.

After coating the veneer, wash up your tools relax for thirty seconds and it time to start the pressing.

This will be surprisingly tacky and not want to move around too much. Get some assistance if you need and with a little help you can get this dropped on right in place.

Start in a corner. When the glue warms it will want to dance a little so pay mind to the edges and overhang. Once you get a small area locked down you can take a wider stance and take on a little more ground. You can start in the center and work out but I dont think it's as good as this method. Do not work down all the edges and then work toward the center

Slow even pressure with mild heat. Too much heat with crack your veneer. work out moisture from the glue and make a steam pocket. All ugly things that make a lot more problems. If your in a hurry then this job is not for you!

A close up of the scars from the iron. You can use kraft paper if you like but this is so superficial and all goes away.

Finally the countless hours of desing and CAD work are taking a shape

For good measure, leave the panel to cure with a little assistance to stay flat for 24 hours

To remove your tape; dampen the the perf tape and let it work loose the glue.

Very gently scrape away the tape. when the glue line of the tape gets wet it will come right off. Do not scrape it off. Wet the tape a few times so it gently come away from the veneer

Once all the tape is off, dry with a towel

Then on the lowest heat cook off the remaining moisture. You cant work this panel until it's moistur content stabalizes.

Take reading of the moisture from the substrate before you begin the project.

It will take a couple days for the moisture from the glueing to stabilize to normal. You have to wait until MC is back to the starting point.

The veneer project is then turned into a flowing design by back cutting the panel to make a joint

With a V cutter the back of the panel is cut at the precise point the edge will be. Set up a fenc for your router and cut 2 or 3 passes until you reach the paper backing of the veneer

If you cut through it will be time to start all over since the design will loose all charactoristics of fluidity.

Here the customer has chose Bloodwood, African Satinwood, and English Sycimore. All very highly figured veneer for a Red/Yellow/White theme to the design.

The laser work of the veneer produced stunning results. The pieces fit perfectly. Both sides are identical, in a mirror image.

The tops are veneered last to avoid visible glueline on the top surface.

The matching horns a Bloodwood and Brazilian Satinwood (yellowheart)

Horns finished with woofer and ports now cut in.

New style of solid mounting the horn to the cabinet to avoid vibration problems.

Heavy binding post and turn aluminum feat with leveling screws.

Satinwood veneer for the back and bottom of the cabinet

BMS 4592 coaxial compression driver

Custom wires done in red and yellow to stay with the speaker cabinets theme.

Riser block for the horn to sit and hide the midrang and tweeter wiring.

The aluminum mounting throat. Original to Martinelli sound. all others are just copy cats.

Getting a little messy here. ready for the paint shop.

After many coats of catylized lacquer the end of the project is near. Eminence 12" magnum woofer.

The grain in the veneer pops out and quite litterally grabs your eye.

If your willing to spend the time and do a veneer job like this. The payoff will be worth it.

Aluminum throats high polished. all the turned aluminum for this set of speakers has been high polished.